Cultural significance beyond the scroll

By Caitlin Johnston

From cultural chic to cultural theft, the rise of social media has turned fashion and beauty trends into a dangerous game of appropriation. Behind the seemingly harmless scroll lies a troubling reality, where the line between inspiration and exploitation is blurred, leaving marginalized communities vulnerable to the erasure of their cultural heritage or an unfamiliar face representing an unprecedented rebrand.

Social media has become an undeniable force shaping our fashion and beauty trends. With millions of users sharing their styles, looks, and opinions, on platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube we have revolutionized the way we perceive and engage with fashion and beauty. Social media has not only democratized the industry, giving rise to influential fashion and beauty influencers but has also accelerated the spread of trends, making them accessible and inspiring to people of all backgrounds. This has unleashed a wave of creativity, enabling individuals to express their unique styles, discover new brands and products, and challenge traditional norms. With the power to instantly popularize styles and aesthetics, social media has inadvertently contributed to the commodification and mainstream appropriation of niche fashion and beauty cultures. As trends swiftly move from subcultures to the mainstream, the line between appreciation and appropriation becomes blurred. This phenomenon raises important questions about the authenticity and inclusivity of our evolving fashion and beauty landscape in the digital age and what we can do to make sure all cultures are respected and appreciated.

Within the realm of fashion and beauty, a significant number of prominent trends can trace their roots back to cultures and people of color. These cultural influences have historically played a vital role in shaping our global aesthetic. However, an unfortunate pattern has emerged, where these trends originating from communities of color are often rebranded and popularized by white majorities. This process not only erases the rich cultural heritage behind these styles but also perpetuates a system of cultural appropriation. The mainstream fashion and beauty industries often fail to credit or uplift the communities that have inspired these trends, leading to a disheartening cycle of marginalization. Recognizing and addressing this issue is crucial for fostering a more inclusive and respectful fashion and beauty sphere that acknowledges and celebrates the diverse origins of these trends.

Cultural appropriation is a phenomenon deeply intertwined with the fashion and beauty industries, has significant and far-reaching effects on minority communities. It wasn’t until recently that this was being acknowledged in our societies fashion, beauty, and music trends. When elements of a marginalized culture are taken, commodified, and exploited by dominant groups, it perpetuates a power imbalance and further marginalizes those whose culture is being appropriated. Cultural appropriation reduces rich and sacred traditions to mere trends, stripping them of their cultural significance and historical context. This exploitation not only undermines the integrity and authenticity of minority communities’ cultural expressions but also reinforces stereotypes and erases the contributions of those communities. Moreover, it denies opportunities for individuals from marginalized backgrounds to benefit financially or receive recognition for their cultural creations. This is seen in out media now; certain content creators are granted more business opportunities due to many of these trends leaving creators of color left behind despite deeper roots. By disregarding the harmful consequences of cultural appropriation, we perpetuate a cycle of cultural erasure and perpetuate inequality, hindering the progress towards a more inclusive and equitable society. It is vital that we promote cultural appreciation rather than appropriation, engaging in respectful dialogue and collaboration that uplifts marginalized communities rather than exploiting their cultural heritage for personal gain.

Mia Zubiate is a nineteen-year-old Arizonan studying political science at the University of Tampa who just like the rest of girls her age are inspired by social media fashion and beauty trends and influence her own style and routines. Mia previously went to school at the University of Idaho and explains how she has seen cultural appropriation both at school and home whether it was through fashion or even dialect. Mia takes part in Gua Sha as a part of her skincare regime. When asked about it she explained that the Gua Sha trend has been implemented in my everyday nighttime routine and has helped with lymphatic drainage and depuffing.” Mia believes that with proper education these trends could be appropriately utilized by all. “I think that if you want to incorporate a culture other than your own, you need to do research and make sure you are doing it respectfully. When not done respectfully it can create a sense of appropriation that is unnecessary” she explained. Mia discussed changes she hopes to see and ways she hopes people can pivot to going about utilizing different practices. “I would like there to be a change in the way the fashion industry as a whole approaches adding different cultures into their trends. There needs to be a higher level of respect for different cultures and making sure everything is being done respectfully,” said Mia. She herself takes extra precautions to maintain in an appreciative status by doing things such as educating herself on the correct wat to use or do it and learning why this practice or trend exists.

Cultural appropriation in the media continues to be a concerning issue, often manifested through the adoption and commercialization of cultural practices without proper acknowledgment or understanding. Some recent examples are the emergence of the “clean girl” aesthetic, hair oiling, and the fox eye look.

The emergence of the “clean girl” aesthetic, popularized on social media platforms, is not only a trend but also an example of cultural appropriation that erases the contributions and cultural significance of African American women. While the aesthetic incorporates elements of minimalism and natural beauty, it often appropriates specific features traditionally associated with African American women, such as slick hair and big hoops. The slicked-back hairstyles, with an inclusion of what is known as “baby hair” or “edges,” and

large hoop earrings have long been a part of African American culture and personal style. However, when these features are co-opted without proper acknowledgement or understanding of their cultural origins, they become detached from their significance within the African American community. It is also important to note that when these looks were worn by African Americans it was deemed “ghetto” and “cheap”, but now that’s it has taken on a new face it is acceptable by the masses. These types of stereotypes are extremely detrimental to women of color. Ogechi Ukwuoma a political science major at Boston University and is the daughter of Nigerian immigrants recalls a time where she witnessed similar appropriation, and it affected her own identity. “In high school, there was a white girl in the grade below me who was infatuated with blackness, and doing everything associated with it as if it was an aesthetic to play into” she then explains what that looked like. “The way she played this character was as if she thought being black was to be ghetto, because it wasn’t as simple as doing her edges and wearing box braids. She felt the need to be extremely loud, rude, and have an attitude, as if that’s what she thought all black girls were like.” This erasure of African American women’s contributions to style and beauty perpetuates a pattern of cultural appropriation and denies them the recognition they deserve.

Hair oiling, a traditional practice deeply rooted in South Asian and Middle Eastern cultures, has gained popularity as a beauty trend in Western media. This practice involves applying natural oils to the hair and scalp for nourishment and hydration. However, when it is appropriated without acknowledgement or understanding of its cultural origins, it becomes an instance of cultural commodification. The media often fails to credit the cultural heritage and knowledge behind hair oiling, reducing it to a trendy beauty hack

without recognizing its significance within specific cultural contexts. A similar trend has emerged with Henna. Traditionally henna is used in Indian cultures as a form of art and expression during special celebrations like weddings. Recently Henna has been used to create fake freckles, dye hair, or contour lips. More recently on tik tok it has been labeled a “hack” which completely erases the cultural roots behind it.

The fox eye trend, characterized by elongated, upward-swept eye makeup and the manipulation of facial features to mimic the appearance of almond-shaped eyes, has faced criticism for its cultural appropriation. The trend draws inspiration from East Asian features, particularly the shape of the eyes, which have historically been fetishized, exoticized, and even been the cause of bullying.

Linae Bezdek, who is a student at Emerson College studying media arts production, explains that “to see people changing their appearance to become more Asian is just very strange and creepy to a lot of Asian people.”  By co-opting and popularizing this look without understanding the cultural implications and experiences associated with East Asian features, the trend reinforces harmful stereotypes and reduces an integral aspect of East Asian identity to a fleeting beauty trend. It is crucial to recognize and challenge instances of cultural appropriation to promote inclusivity and respect for diverse cultures.

These examples highlight the need for media literacy and responsible representation in the fashion and beauty industries. It is crucial for media outlets to provide accurate information, acknowledge the cultural origins of practices, and ensure that cultural elements are portrayed in a respectful and informed manner. By doing so, the media can promote cultural appreciation rather than appropriation, fostering a more inclusive and equitable portrayal of diverse cultural practices.